Friday, May 4, 2012

Carlsbad Caverns: It's Not Just For Bats

On the way home from our prairie chicken adventure, Keith and I decided to visit Carlsbad Caverns National Park.  We were a bit early in the season for the bat program (I shall return!), but we were very glad we explored this natural, national gem.  Carlsbad actually consists of about 110 caves that were created not by rainwater but by sulfuric acid dissolving away limestone.  We were close to the Permian Basin, an active area of gas and oil drilling.  Carlsbad Caverns is part of the ancient Capitan Reef , now part of the Guadalupe Mountains. 

Down, down, down we go into Carlsbad Cavern.

I could not believe how large and well...cavernous Carlsbad cavern is!  Once I'd seen it, I understood why Will Rogers called it "the Grand Canyon with a roof."  The natural entrance is a huge gaping hole--we were told that it yawns 180 feet across.  It was through this entrance that the original spelunkers explored the cave.  The Natural Entrance offers a  1 1/4 mile, moderate, self-guiding hike that follows a narrow, spiraling trail 750 feet down into the earth.  Hundreds of cave swallows greet visitors at the surface, their busy chatter and constant movement in and out of the cave interesting in itself.  As I descended the trail, light from the natural entrance faded and the temperature dropped from 90 degrees at the surface to a chilly 56 degrees.  The cave is quite humid, and by the time we reached the rest area at the end of our descent, we were soaked.  We didn't mind, though.  We'd had the descending hike mostly to ourselves, and had enjoyed the quiet, still, softly lit formations that often flanked the trail.  Keith is not much of a troglodyte, but even he enjoyed the experience. 

I'm hiking further and further from daylight. 
See the little people at the mouth of the cave?
Once down at the rest area, called the Lunchroom, we joined a ranger-led tour of the King's Palace, the deepest area of the cave.  Here, 830 feet below the surface, we visited three large chambers--the King's, Queen's, and Papoose Rooms.  Stalactites, stalagmites, soda straws, helictites, draperies, rock waterfalls, and columns abounded.  There was still evidence of early exploration as well as mining.  The mining hadn't been for minerals but for guano (known to most of us as bat poop).  Toward the end of our tour, the ranger asked us to sit.  He turned out the lights and we experienced the total, impenetrable darkness of the unlit cave.  Our ranger had a mischievous streak--while the lights were out he discussed insects that live in the cave.  Lights out didn't last long, though, and we were soon back from the inky oblivion.

Stalagmites, stalactites, some drapery, and soda straws.  The cleared area
on the floor is manmade.  At one time, the town of Carlsbad held
community functions in the cave.
After our tour, we could have hiked back up to the natural entrance, but it was late in the day so we zoomed to the surface via a handy elevator, an alternative means of accessing the cave for those who are not interested in the Natural Entrance hike.


The formations are spectacular.


The Park Service offers many other cave tours, including adventure treks requiring visitors to don miner's helmets and crawl, squirm, and feel their way through caves.  There are also surface hikes, and the surrounding area is both beautiful and brimming with history.  Even if you don't get to see the bats, Carlsbad Caverns is well worth a visit!



A "rock" waterfall.

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